Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Arrived in Houston

Zach and I are back in the US! We arrived in Houston about three hours ago - I can barely keep my eyes open, so off to get some sleep.

The trip was an unqualified success - I'm more pleased than I can say. I'll offer a summary post of the experience after I get a little sleep :)


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Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Arrived at hotel near Heathrow!

Zach and I have arrived at the Ramada near Heathrow after being stuck in London traffic for 45 minutes!!!

Our flight home leaves at 11:40am tomorrow, so we will catch a shuttle bus to Heathrow Terminal 4 and plan to arrive at 9:30am for international checkin.

Already miss the beautiful Italian sun!!


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Monday, June 20, 2011

Last day of the trip

Tomorrow, Zach and I fly to London so we can catch our morning flight home on Wednesday. I fly back to Seattle on Thursday and have the weekend to get my body clock turned around before work starts back on Monday.

This is the first three-week vacation I've ever taken. Ever. In my life. And I'm nearly 50. The first TWO week vacation I ever took was three years ago when I last toured Europe. Sad, huh? It takes a 10 hour flight to make me give up the obsessive need to check emails on my phone (mine doesn't work here) and actually enjoy time off. At home, although I often take 3 and 4-day weekends, I never stop checking email, and so never really stop being at work. One emailed crisis is enough to ruin any hope of downtime, and for some reason, there is ALWAYS a crisis.

This is, unfortunately, the norm for Americans.

Europeans think we are crazy. They get 5 weeks and upwards each year, and (unlike us) they actually take it. We get 2-3 weeks and most of us end up losing it because we never use it.

Perhaps we really are crazy.

What is it about American culture that makes us so willing to sacrifice our health, time with our families, and all the other benefits of this, well, benefit? I read somewhere that many of us won't take vacation (without checking email) because we are worried the office will discover they can do without us. For myself, I can honestly say the only reason I've been able to stand being offline from work these past three weeks is because I have two job interviews lined up when I return. I guess I suffer from that worry as well. That's really sad. Is our culture that cutthroat?

When did working 55-hour weeks and never taking time off become not only the norm, but acceptable? I mean, let's face it - the vast majority of us are not working at jobs where being absent would cause world economic collapse or the death of millions. Like most of us, I'm buried in the bowels of a corporate behemoth, a cog in a large machine, and one that can be replaced or worked around if it's not there. That's the sad truth. Most of us aren't really that necessary, but I guess we prefer to believe that we are - so we behave as though every crisis was of apocalyptic proportions, because it makes us important as the saviour.

So here's my resolution:
1. When something "bad" happens at work, I will retain my sense of proportion and not respond as though armageddon was upon us.
2. I will become to voice of reason for my co-workers, encouraging them to find balance in their responses to "crises"
3. When I am at work, I will work hard, When I take time off, I will TAKE TIME OFF.

Ultimately, unless you ARE one of those few whose personal presence at work, all the time, really does impact millions or the fate of the universe (and if you are, I pity you), then there's no reason to behave as if you were. All of us are important - but for most of us that importance isn't at work. It's our family, our kids, our community work, or elsewhere.

Find your "elsewhere" and let work just be work.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Bummer!

Guess what - All of the museums in Italy are CLOSED on Monday!!!! WAAAAAA! So there's no point in me being here - I've already seen all of the cathedrals (WOW) and all that was left were the Pitti Palace up on the hillside across the Arno!

Oh well. I will decide in the new few minutes whether to go ahead and go back to Viareggio this evening or wait until the morning. If I left now, I'd be back in Viareggio around 8 which is time enough for dinner and a nice walk.

The question is, do I want to pack up and go now, or just do it in the morning.

Have I said "WAAAAA" yet? :)

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Poerty and hard decisions

My apologies for that diversion. Viareggio does this to me. :)

I'm leaving in the morning to spend two days of solitary time in Florence. Leaving my nephew to discover Italy and Viareggio on his own. Well, not completely on his own.... a college student from Vermont, whom we met in Dublin and is on a long summer tour of Europe himself, has joined us here. Nice guy. They will do their discovering together. Florence is only 90 minutes away by train, and they run nearly every half hour all day and into the evening, so I'm gone, but not far. But far enough.

I will admit that leaving Zach here is one of the harder things I will do on this trip. It's also vital. Over the past two weeks, I've given him the space to make his own decisions, take responsibility for his choices, and manage the consequences as an adult. That - after all - was part of the point of this exercise. And that, I can tell you, has given me me a couple of nail-biter moments. The stories are his to tell. He has shown himself to be a thoughtful, intelligent young man with the heart of a mercenary. He is a charmer who wields it like a weapon. He is also polite, considerate, and thoughtful. He's a son to be proud of and a promising young man.

For all he's definitely 18, he's also definitely ready for this.

Leaving him to discover a new place is the final "exam", if you will. He can do this. I have no doubts. Worries, yes. Doubts, no. However, I can tell that I will probably worry too much over the next two days. It's my nature. Sometimes I'm so maternal I could nurse.

However - it's important that Zach know that he is trusted, and is seen to be trustWORTHY. I doubt his parents could do this without coming unglued - which is why it falls to me. Goodie. However, when you know you are trusted, you accept the responsibility for that trust. You can't do this by half measures. All in, or all out.

We have a deal, Zach and I. He promises to not make me a) pick him up at a police station or b) pick him up at a hospital - and I promise to get out of his way. Equitable.

I will enjoy Florence. When Timm and I were there three years ago, 4 days wasn't nearly enough and I look forward to finally crossing the Ponte Vecchio and seeing what's on the other side of the Arno River.

And resisting the temptation to text Zach every five minutes.

He will be fine, and he will return from this trip not a child, but a young adult.

And I will need a Vallium.

Viareggio (and possibly all of Italy)

The maestro slows the tempo
and the players respond in kind.

A long day in the Italian sun,
pizzicato children racing between discoveries
counterpoint of parents racing after them,
replaced by the long coda of late afternoon.

The tempo slows further, as the players pause
disappear
prepare for the next movement.

Intermission.

The baton signals the start of Passegiatta
Languid, late dinners, lingering over a cappuccino and conversation
The waiter enforcing the tempo - never rushing,
inviting the players to relish every beat, every measure.
Haste forgotten, or at least put aside.

Pairs of elderly women walk
arm in arm, shawls pulled tight
exchanging endless confidences.

Young couples, effortlessly hand in hand
walking no where, so slowly the music moves around them

Groups of young men
stylish, smiling, confident
plotting their next soccer goal.

Elderly men, scowling on a bench
measuring, critiquing, fondly remembering.

The palm trees sway a stately pavane
as the evening fades
and the maestro pauses
to breathe.

Final Travel Arrangements!

Ok - here's the endgame for this little sojourn.
Zach is in Viareggio until Tuesday morning
I will likely stay here tonight and take an early train to Florence tomorrow (Sunday)

Tuesday:
I will take an early morning train from Florence to Viareggio, collect Zach and pay the hotel bill. We will then take a late morning train to Pisa for a 3pm flight to London Stansted Airport. Upon arrival, we will take the train to London Heathrow and a quick cab ride to the Heathrow Ramada. We will spend the night there recuperating and getting ready for the flight home.

Wednesday:
Rested and ready, we will take a quick cab ride to the airport for our 11:40am flight HOME!!!!

Arrived in Italy!

Zach and I have arrived in Viareggio!!! We have a room in the Villa Tina with a view of the beach and ocean!

I will finish up our travel arrangements to get home, and if there is time after will hop a train to Florence. Zach has a friend he met in Dublin (another college student) joining him here later today.

This place is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!

Friday, June 17, 2011

Delightful weekend in Stuttgart with family

Wow - what a wonderful weekend this was!  It was great to get to spend time with Harald, Stefi and their (formerly) well-mannered children (I´ll explain that in a moment).

This part of Germany is amazingly pretty.  We went on a very long hike on Thursday, then toured a local castle and university town today with Aunt Peggy and Uncle Gunther so the kids could go to the water park (it´s a school holiday - no sense making them spend the whole time touring the area with their non-German-speaking relatives.....)

The highlight (if you want to call it that) was Zach teaching Helen and Lenny the "pull my finger" gag.  Lenny picked up on it almost immediately.  See what I mean about "formerly well behaved"?  Zach is, quite simply, both a terrible role model and huge source of amusement for the kids. By the time the lesson was over, everyone was rolling on the floor laughing, including the parents (thank goodness).

We leave early in the morning to relocate to Italy for the weekend.  Car to Stuttgart train station, train to Frankfurt International Airport, bus from there to their smaller airport, flight to Pisa, train to Viareggio.  I have booked a hotel in Viareggio as a treat for the end of the trip.  Once I get Zach checked into the room, I will hop a train and go to Florence for the weekend, myself.  Time to let him fend for himself, and I want another crack at all of the amazing sights in Florence before we leave.  We will join up again on Tuesday for a train back to Pisa and flight to London.  We will overnight there and catch the flight home on Wednesday.

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Sightseeing in Amsterdam

This has to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I love walking around and discovering areas where a road has intersected a canal and there are cafe's with people sitting in the sun enjoying the beauty and watching the world go by. American cities just aren't set up for that.

Zach, as usual, hit the ground running when he got here. After he took a long nap (we had to be up at 4:45AM to catch the flight here), he evidently went downstairs to the little pub in the hostel and met a TON of people and chatted until early this morning. I say "evidently" because I fell asleep early myself and slept 11 hours.

This hostel is VERY VERY full, and nearly everyone is college-age. There are a few families, and some older adults like me, but largely, it's college kids. Yes, this place makes me feel old :)

Zach is taken for a college kid by everyone, and just fits right in. I chatted with a few of these kids yesterday, and it seems most are on a European tour, and Amsterdam is one of their stops. The hostel here is very large, and has it's own small pub so it's easy for them to meet each other. Interestingly enough, I heard from more than one that they have to go home early because their money ran out sooner than they planned. The exchange rate to the Euro is completely terrible ($1.50 to the Euro) so money doesn't go far at all. The dollar is definitely having a hard time. It wasn't any better in the UK against the Pound. When I did my college tour 25 years ago I was working with a bazillion different currencies, and although the exchange rates weren't fantastic, it wasn't nearly that bad.

As in Dublin, the hostel organizes a pub tour for their residents, and Zach met up with some of his new friends from last night and is off for another night of socializing. I LOVE that he's meeting so many people from all over the world on this trip. He will come home with lots of stories and TONS of memories. Again, I can't tell you how happy I am at how this is going.

We spent the day walking around Amsterdam - mostly a meander around to get the flavor of the place. Like I said, this is one beautiful place. Of course, no walking tour of Amsterdam would be complete without a walk through the red light district. It's unique in the world. As I mentioned before, the new mayor is working to shut down this part of the city, so this might be one of the last opportunities to see it. As I expected, it gave Zach and I more opportunities for good conversations. I am continually amazed at the sophistication of his thinking.

Zach is out on the organized pub tour this evening, so I get some time to read, relax, and plan out the last bit of our itinerary - oh, and do laundry. It wouldn't do to stink out Harald and Stefi :)

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Monday, June 13, 2011

Teachable Moments

Any educator with experience will tell you that the most valuable lessons are those you don't plan. I'm so fortunate that this trip is offering so many opportunities, and trust me I'm making the best of them.

Rewind on the Dublin trip:
One of the reasons I love Dublin is that it's a great theatre town. Saturday night, I decided to see "Cat On A Hot Tin Roof" at the Gate Theatre. I figured it would be interesting to see what a classic American drama would be like when an Irish cast made the attempt. After all, "American" is as much an accent as Irish. I'm glad I went - although the actress playing Maggie was a complete train wreck (which made Act I particularly painful), waiting it out until Act II was completely worth the wait. I was completely taken in by the rest of the cast and they did an admirable job with the accent (Southern, 50's, Georgia-ish). The quality of theatre in Dublin never ceases to amaze me - and as long as the actrees playing Maggie never EVER appears on a stage again, I will happily continue enjoying Irish theatre!!

I ended up spending most of the evenings (and at least two of the days) to myself - Zach found a group of cronies almost immediately and spent the entire weekend with them. That was fine with me - part of the point of this trip is to give him some space. I spent Friday evening at a cocktail party with my old Dublin office team, and Saturday night first at the theatre, then out with my dear friend MJ for coffee and then a beer at the local gay bar. We must have talked for three hours!

By agreement, Sunday was a "down" day - gathering our strength, doing laundry and (in Zach's case) spending a few last hours with his new buddies. They were all so tired from the weekend's running around that they spent most of the rainy Dublin afternoon sitting in the TV room at the hostel chatting and dozing.

After a WONDERFUL weekend in Dublin for both of us, we got up EARLY this morning to head to Amsterdam. Zach is most definitely not a morning person, although he understands we have to travel early flights to get good prices and is willing to do what's needed, even when it runs against his normal internal clock. He's upstairs napping now. I won't ask him to get up early tomorrow. We have plenty of time to do a basic tour of Amsterdam tomorrow. Interestingly enough, Amsterdam is starting to be less "edgy" than it has been. Seems the new mayor has decided that it's time for Amsterdam to shed it's reputation for a red light district and cannabis cafe's. Too bad, really - the city is unique in it's approach to both, but evidently it's overshadowing everything else about the city in the eyes of the world. It will be a loss, I think, not to have one place on the planet that lets adults handle their own decisions without a nanny-state looking over their shoulders. My two cents.

I still need to book the last leg of our trip. Will probablay tackle that this evening later. Just the flight to Pisa, train to Viareggio, hotel in Viareggio (our one time not in a hostel), then train to Pisa and flight to London to catch our plane home next week.

I'm tired, but happy. Life is good.

Arrived Amsterdam!

Zach and I have arrived in Amsterdam and checked into the Stayok Vondelpark hostel - it's completely amazing on the outside and literally only a couple of blocks from the boutique hotel I stayed at last time. I sort of know my way around (but after wandering for 15 minutes trying to find the hostel, Zach will have a much different assessment) :)


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Sunday, June 12, 2011

Journeys made and journeys yet to come

This is our last evening in Ireland - we fly out to Amsterdam in the (early) morning to begin the second leg of our journey.

All in all, this first week of the trip has been wildly successful. Beyond my wildest hopes, really. When I first thought of this trip for my nephew, what was in my mind was something akin to the rites of passage that most cultures have - when a young person transitions from child to adult status in a community, they are often removed from the group for some period of time and given specific instruction and experiences. Upon returning to the group, they are now considered a newly-minted adult with many of the attendant responsibilities and privileges that entails. The period of separation provides the time for them to discover the world outside the boundaries of childhood and begin deciding what place they eventually want in the adult world. Hopefully, they also gain an understanding that this is just the first step for their future - there is much learning yet to come, but it will have a different purpose: to turn them into the person they will be for the rest of their lives.

This is a ritual that Western culture somehow lost along the way, but one which I think has immense value.

Zach has made a good start. All I can hope is that the experiences of the next week, which will be very different from the week just past, will prove as valuable to him. He's proven to not only be ready for adult responsibility, but also shown a depth of understanding that is encouraging. To be sure, there have been a couple of nail-biting moments, but he's come through them well. I can't tell you how proud I am. He is young - so very young - but there is great promise.

As for myself, I have unexpectedly discovered that I am on a rite of passage of my own. As I make my passage into middle age, my role changes as well - and though I'm not quite ready for the tent of the elders, I can already tell that I will return from this trip a different person, too. Perhaps it's my first step on the road to the wisdom of age. I, too, have much learning yet to come, and it has the same purpose: to turn me into the person I will be for the rest of my life.

My thanks to my friend MJ here in Dublin, who to my delight became the initial mentor for this journey. Like me, she is also at a crossroads of her life, and the conversations we had over coffee and beers helped me to understand what is going on in my head.

Next step Amsterdam!

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Saturday, June 11, 2011

updated travel plans

OK - booked the next legs of the trip!

Monday 6/13 Fly Dublin to Eindhoven, Netherlands
Bus/Train to Amsterdam
Stay Stayok Hostel Vondelpark Mon/Tues nights

Wednesday 6/15 Train from Amsterdam to Stuttgart
Arrive 13:08 at Stuttgart Hbf arriving from Manheim
Stay with Harald/Stefi 15/16/17

That part is confirmed and booked.

Proposed balance of itinerary (to be booked)
Sat 6/18 Fly Stuttgart to Pisa
Train Pisa to Viareggio

Viareggio Sat/Sun/Mon

Fly Pisa to London Tues 6/21
Overnight in London
Fly home Wed 6/22


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Friday, June 10, 2011

Young Men

It was a very busy first day in Dublin. The flight from Glasgow was uneventful, but Zach ended up having a great time last night at a Pub. From what he tells me, he walked into a small neighborhood place and as soon as they figured out he was American, they started treating him like royalty and buying his drinks. He had a wonderful couple of hours with them and was back at the hostel early, since we had an early flight. I am sure he will give you more details on his own blog entry. I was pleased that he handled this so well, and in a very mature manner.

Today was all about getting settled into our new weekend home at the International Hostel in Dublin. We went on the tour of the Guiness plant, then met a former co-worker of mine in the afternoon for coffee. I quickly found out that her going away party from Microsoft was TONIGHT and I was invited. Since I was the one that transferred her to the Dublin office in the first place, I was honored. Zach and I split up for the evening - no sense dragging him to a cocktail party full of middle-aged geeks. Fortunately, he met a couple of guys in the hostel and they decided to go into Temple Bar together for the evening. I am guessing he will be back late. :)

We got inexpensive cellphones today, so are able to keep in touch when separated. He will likely sightsee Dublin on his own tomorrow. He's showing a lot more independence now that the "new" has worn off of the whole "international travel thing". I've come to discover that he's very much like his father was at that age - and likely a reflection of his grandfather as well... confident to the point of arrogance, and convinced that nothing can ever go wrong. I remember myself at that age - most young men believe themselves to be bulletproof, 7 feet tall, and covered with hair. :) I love that he is so confident, but I worry that - not knowing the limits of what bravado and bluff will get you - doesn't yet know how far is too far. Again, this is a common feature of most young men - I had it in spades until life finally decided to remind me that I too was mortal.

This trip is turning out to be not only a learning experiences for Zach, but surprisingly for me as well. In watching Zach and coaching him through this experience, I'm learning that there are some unresolved things about my passage into middle age that I'm finally being forced to take out and look at closely. I'm not quite ready to share, but suffice to say for the first time in my life, I feel - very completely - my age. I'm not sure if that's a good thing or bad.

More update tomorrow. Don't expect a post from Zach until tomorrow afternoon.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Travel to Glasgow

Today was a travel day - but even at that, it was amazing. The train from Fort William to Glasgow went through some of the most breathtaking highland scenery. It's stunningly beautiful.

On the train, we ended up chatting with a young lady who was on her way from Skye to visit her boyfriend in the Midlands of England. She is a third year university student, studying Gaelic and Religious Studies, and I get many of my questions about the language answered.

Even better, a trio of young men came onto the train after the second stop and they turned out to be new high school graduates from the Netherlands! They had just completed a hiking tour of the highlands as their own post-gratuation trip. Zach struck up a conversation (and I quickly absented my middle-aged self) and they spent the whole trip chatting and working a word puzzle in the paper together. Again, this is just the type of experience I was hoping Zach would get, and I couldn't be more happy for this coincidence. He figured out that he had to talk a little slower, but instead of not using slang, he just explained it as he went along.

Zach was struck with the maturity of the guys, and mentioned that they seemed much older to him. Again - couldn't be happier :)

We catch an early flight to Dublin in the morning, and will be there for three days. I will take him around on the first day, then probably set him loose the second to explore on his own. High time he had a chance to strike out without his frowsy old uncle in tow. Dublin's a great place for that. We will get cell phones after arriving, so will have a way to keep in touch.

I'm going to go back and try to add the pictures to the posting from last night. Check back in a few minutes to see if I was successful!

Update - next few days' itinerary

Ok - couldn't get the flights and trains and stars to align, so we are doing a one day detour to Glasgow!

Here's the itinerary:
Today - Train from Fort William to Glasgow; booked into SYA Hostel in Glasgow for the night
Tomorrow - Aer Lingus flight 3221 from Glasgow to Dublin arriving 9:30am.  Booked into the Dublin International Hostel for three nights.

We will leave Dublin on Monday for Amsterdam.  Don't know the details after that but will update you as soon as we figure it out!

Harald - looks like we are still anticipating being in Stuttgart Thurs/Fri approximately.  I will finalize the balance of our itinerary while in Dublin and let you know!

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Nessie and Glen Nevis

Sorry. Can't load pics tonight... Blogger is acting up. Will add them as i can.

Wow - what an amazing day! We started with a bus ride from Inverness to Drumnadriocht to see Urquardt (pronounced Urk-Art) castle on Loch Ness. They have a fantastic 10 minute movie that runs through 1000 years of history at the site, and afterward we got to roam around the well presented and documented site. Heaven!



From there, we caught a bus on to Fort William at the end of the Great Glen Way. Just as we had walked the first portion on the Inverness side, we spent the afternoon walking the first portion on the Fort William side - up to an old series of locks called "Neptune's Staircase".




oh, by the way - we met up with the Hogwart's Train on the way there. It was deadheading back from taking the kids to London.


After touring the locks, we tried to get a bus home, and while waiting ran into a lovely retired couple from Wales. Seems they had elected to walk there as well, and were as disinclined to walk back as we were. This was our first day carrying the packs all day (changing hostels) and were tired puppies by this point. The bus never came, so we all decided to chip in on a taxi. We had a fun chat with them on the ride back. This is exactly the sort of thing I was hoping would happen on this trip (Zach has probably already blogged about the guy who started chatting with us at a pub yesterday).

The real treat was, after checking into the Ben Nevis Youth Hostel, they recommended the Ben Nevis Inn for dinner. Oh my freakin' god. Restored 300-year-old barn in the middle of sheep pasture, fantastic food (steak with a to-die-for whiskey and peppercorn sauce) and a live trio of British guys doing fantastic bluegrass. Zach and I were in heaven.

This trip is turning out to be everything I had hoped for and more. :)

Our next port of call is Dublin. I am working out the arrangements tonight... It's turning out to be harder than I thought...



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Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Jetlag R Us and Train to Inverness

Zach and I spent most of yesterday jet lagged out of our minds - 9 hours on a plane overnight with no sleep... ick. We managed to see many of the key sights in London yesterday, but I don't know how much of it either of us will remember-- it all went by in a kind of fog :) We did get to tour Westminster Cathedral, and I am pleased to announce that my fellow American tourists were much better behaved than they were in 1984 when I was here last. I was MORTIFIED then to find hoards of Americans disgorging from their bus tours, then running around Westminster Cathedral gawking and yelling to each other like they were at the freakin' zoo or something. Much better this time, to my relief.

We finally got onto our sleeper train to Inverness around 8:30 last night, and neither one of us was awake for more than 5 minutes after that.... crash and burn in a big way. We both slept like rocks, and for the better.

Arrived at Inverness early this morning - it's a beautiful little city - an odd mix of old architecture and new that's a bit jarring at times, but interesting nonetheless. We stopped into the hostel to dump our backpacks and are walking around the city today to get oriented. Probably hike to Loch Ness tomorrow, which I'm really looking forward to!

This is us in the main shopping district of Inverness.




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Location:Inverness, Scotland

Saturday, June 4, 2011

Good medicine

It was great to see my family this weekend - I've not seen my parents or sister in two years and I forget how much I love being around them. I've been really bad about making time to get to Omaha to visit. I see my brother's family in Houston once a year, but it's normally only for the weekend.

I'm going to have to figure out how to make time to get to Omaha and Houston more often - being with family is good medicine.

Location:Hilton Garden Inn, Sugar Land TX

Zach's Graduation Trip

Zach's graduation was yesterday, and we are spending the day with family and getting last minute packing done. Our flight leaves Sunday afternoon....10 hours in coach... File me under "whatthehellwasithinking" please.... If there is a screaming baby on the flight, someone may have to bail me out of jail later.

Of course, Zach is excited, although I wonder if part of that excitement is just getting away from the 'rants for the first time... Honestly, we could be going to Canada and he would probably be just as happy :)

I am excited too, of course- but my excitement is more about getting to watch him react to what he's about to experience. Once you have been out of the country, your perspectives change forever- and I think that's a good thing.

I have the iPad just about all configured, so with luck we should be able to both keep daily travel journals. I hope you enjoy sharing this trip with me.


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Location:Meadow Green Dr,Sugar Land,United States